Surfing

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My favorite sport, as my about page says, is surfing. I probably surf 3 or 4 times a week in the winter, fall, and spring. But in the summer, I try to surf as much as I can, probably 5 times a week when I’m home. My home break is Beacons, and I love to go out there. All of my friends live in Cardiff, so when I want to surf there I have to drive about 10 minutes to get there. But otherwise, I just walk up the hill to Beacons.

The waves around here are pretty good, slow in the summer and fun in the winter. The biggest day that I’ve ever gone out on was about 8 foot – and I don’t want to try that again! It is usually about four foot average in the fall and winter, but it can get big when there’s swell. In the spring, south swells start to come in and create fun waves like there is now. In the summer, it’s usually small but fun – and crowded.
My current surfboard is pretty small – 4’6″ tall, 17.25″ wide, and a little less that two inches thick. It works better in small to medium waves, and harder to surf on big waves.

I love surfing because you can get creative, and everybody has their own style. You should try it if you have never done it before!

2 thoughts on “Surfing

  1. I agree with you Shane, surfing is the best! Keep up the good working Stingray!

  2. What a great post, Shane! I live about 5 minutes walk from a beach but it is not usually a surfing beach. Sometimes though with the wind coming in from the right angle, you can’t move for cars parked alongside the roads where surfers are trying out the break from the point.

    PS If you added an image to your post, I will put it in the flipboard magazine.

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